| Q. What is the best method for sizing a power venter to any type of appliance, whether gas fired of oil fired? |
| A. The best way to size a power venter is by input BTU (if gas) and maximum GPH (gallons per hour), if oil. If oil-fired system take into account the pump pressure. For example the firing rate of an appliance with 1.00 GPH and a pump pressure of 140 PSI will be equivalent to 1.20 GPH firing rate. Sizing a power venter to the down-fired rate is not recommended. Also, do not size an oil-fired appliance by the BTU rating. In the oil heat industry most people speak of BTU output, which is a smaller number. Going by maximum GPH rating cuts out the confusion between input and output. |
| Q. When reducing or increasing the flue pipe, where is the best location to do it? |
| A. The best place to do any increasing would be as close to the outlet of the heating appliance as possible. This would be opposite when it comes to reducing the flue pipe size. For reducing flue pipe size you would want to reduce as close to the power venter as possible, this will give you better drafting and control of your static pressure. |
| Q. Which power venter is better, the SWG series or the PV series? |
| A. The SWG series power venter is the safest of the power venters to use since it will keep the venting system under a negative pressure. With the system under a negative pressure, if a crack occurs in the flue pipe it will draw air in through the crack instead of leaking the flue gases out, which is what happens with a positive pressure system. Both power venters work just as well in venting flue gases, but the SWG is the safest. |
| Q. What if the power venter cannot be mounted 12 inches above finished grade? |
| A. Run an elbow out of the house and go up until you are a foot above grade, then elbow into the power venter. Build a doghouse structure around the power venter for support. Call 800-742-8368 if further information is needed. |
| Q. How far can I run the 1/4 inch pressure-sensing tube on my CK kit to the stainless steel tube on the power venter?
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| A. The power venter can produce the required vacuum pressure to close the pressure switch up to 100 feet away.
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| Q. Can a power venter be mounted under a deck? |
| A. Generally this practice will be accepted in most states except Massachusetts. Installer should check with local code officials before installation. The deck must be open on all three sides and the clearance from the top of the venter to the bottom of the deck should be at least 12 inches. When venting appliances that operate in the summer this may not be a good practice since people enjoying the deck may smell fumes. |
| Q. Can a power venter be mounted under an overhang? |
| A. Yes, as long as there is at least 12 inches of clearance between the top of the venter and the bottom of the overhang. This clearance may be reduced to 6 inches if a sheet metal shield is mounted underneath the overhang extending 12 inches on either side of the SWG. Also, check with local code officials for any additional requirements. |
| Q. Should the power venter be 4 feet under a window, door, or gravity air inlet or should it be 4 feet under and 4 feet to the side of the same opening? |
| A. This code requirement is interpreted differently depending on the State in which the job is located. Always check with local inspectors before installation. Also, even if the inspector allows 4 feet below a window with an oil-fired appliance, this may not be a good idea because of the likelihood of oil fumes drifting back into the window. |
| Q. How far apart do two power venters need to be? |
| A. Two power venters mounted side by side should be a minimum of 4 feet horizontally apart from each other, measured from the inside edge of each venter. This is to reduce the potential of flue gas re-entry into the building when the venter is not operating. Mounting venters directly above each other is not recommended. |
| Q. What if my wall is too thick for the SWG? |
| A. Use a PEK. The PEK will extend the SWGII-4HD by 6 inches and the SWG-5-8 by 12 inches. If the wall is too thick for SWG and PEK, add installer supplied smoke pipe that is the same diameter as SWG and PEK. Mount the installer-supplied pipe between the SWG and PEK. |
| Q. Can another appliance be added to a power venter later? |
| A. Yes, as long as you make sure the existing power venter can handle the maximum input BTU or GPH of both appliances and you use the appropriate control kit for the second appliance. |
| Q. Will the outside wall of my house get stained with soot if I have a power venter installed? |
| A. Some discoloration may occur if the burner is not properly adjusted. For the most part the SWG power venter, when properly sized and installed, tends to blow flue gases out and away from the building. It is best to install the venter opposite the side of the house that gets the most prevailing wind. |
| Q. Why is the blower wheel on my power venter falling apart in an unreasonably short period of time? |
| A. This is probably due to a condensation problem. Single wall pipe should not be used in unconditioned spaces. Insulated pipe and ensuring adequate combustion and make up air will help. Using a post purge will remove all excess flue gases to help prevent condensation from forming. |
| Q. During the summer, white crystals are formed in the joints of the vent pipe. Why is this? |
| A. This is normally a problem that occurs when an air conditioning system is installed. When the blower comes on, outside air is being drawn into the house through the power venter. The hot, humid outside air causes condensation to form in the pipe. The white crystalline material is usually zinc oxide. Zinc is used in the galvanizing process. The solution would be to use our MAS kit to bring in more outside air directly to the appliance. |